kimono ( ?? , ???) is a traditional Japanese outfit. The word "kimono", which actually means "things to wear" ( ki "wear" and mono "thing"), has come to show this long robe. The standard plural of the word kimono in English is kimono , but the unmarked Japanese plural kimono is also used. Kimono is always used for important events or official occasions. This is a formal dress associated with politeness and courtesy.
Kimono has a T-shaped, straight-lined mantle worn so that the hem falls to the ankle, with an attached collar and long, wide arms. Kimono wrapped around the body, always with the left side on the right (except when putting the corpse for burial) and secured with a sash called obi , tied behind. Kimono is generally worn with traditional footwear (especially z? Ri or geta ) and split-toe socks ( tabi ).
Currently, kimono is most often worn by women, especially on special occasions. Traditionally, unmarried women wear a kimono style called furisode , with long arms almost on the floor, on special occasions. Some older women and even fewer men still wear a kimono every day. Men wear kimono most often at weddings, tea ceremonies, and other occasions that are very special or very formal. Professional sumo wrestlers are often seen in kimono as they have to wear traditional Japanese attire every time they perform in public.
Video Kimono
History
Chinese fashion had a major influence on Japan from the Kofun period until the early Heian period as a result of mass immigration from continents and Japanese envoys to the Tang Dynasty. During the Heian period of Japan (794-1192 AD), the kimono became more stylish, though one was still wearing a half apron, called mo , above it. During the age of Muromachi (1392-1573 AD), Kosode , a kimono previously regarded as underwear, began to be worn without the hakama (trousers, skirts separated) on it, and thus began to be sealed shut with obi "belt". During the Edo period (1603-1867 AD), arms began to grow long, especially among unmarried women, and Obi became more widespread, with various bonding styles coming into vogue. Since then, the basic form of male and female kimono has basically remained unchanged. Kimono's made with superb skills from fine materials have been regarded as great works of art.
Kimono is officially replaced with more comfortable Western clothing and yukata as everyday wear. After the decree by Emperor Meiji, police, train men and teachers moved into Western clothing. Western outfits became army and school uniforms for boys. After the Great Kant 1923? earthquakes, kimono users are often the victims of robbery because they can not run very fast due to the limiting nature of the kimono on the body and geta clogs. The Tokyo Women's & amp; The Children's Clothing Manufacturers Association (????????) promotes Western clothing. Between 1920 and 1930, seafarers replaced the undivided hakama in school uniforms for girls. The national uniform, Kokumin-fuku , a kind of Western dress, was mandated for men in 1940. Today most people wear Western clothes and wear breezier and more comfortable yukata for special occasions.
In the Western world, a kimono-style women's jacket, similar to a casual cardigan, gains public attention as a popular fashion item in 2014.
Maps Kimono
Textile and manufacturing
Kimono for men should fall to the ankle without slipping. The female Kimono has an additional length to allow ohashori , a skid that can be seen under the obi, which is used to match the kimono with the wearer. A specially designed kimono has an arm that falls onto the wrist when the arm is lowered.
Kimono is traditionally made of one bolt of cloth called tan . Tan comes in standard dimensions - about 36 cm wide and 11.5 meters long - and all the bolts are used to make one kimono. The finished Kimono consists of four main strips of fabric - two panels covering the body and two panels forming an arm - with the addition of smaller strips forming narrow front panel and collar. Historically, kimonos are often taken apart to be washed as separate panels and hand-drawn. Since all the bolts remain in the finished garment without cutting, the kimono can be easily exchanged with others.
Maximum arm width is determined by the width of the fabric. The distance from the center of the spine to the tip of the arm can not exceed twice the width of the fabric. Traditional kimono fabrics are usually no more than 36 cm (14 inches) wide. Thus the distance from the spine to the wrist can not exceed a maximum of about 68 centimeters (27 inches). Modern kimono fabrics are woven as wide as 42 cm (17 inches) to accommodate modern Japanese body size. Very tall or heavy people, such as sumo wrestlers, must have custom-made kimonos by combining multiple bolts, weaving cloths of special size, or using non-standard size fabrics.
Traditionally, kimonos are sewn by hand; Even machine-made kimono require substantial hand stitching. Kimono fabrics are often hand-made and -decorated. Techniques like y? Zen resistant dyestuff is used to apply the decoration and pattern on the basic fabric. Repeating patterns that cover large areas of kimono are traditionally done with the technique y? Zen resist and stencil. Over time there are many variations of colors, fabrics and styles, as well as accessories like obi.
Kimono and obi are traditionally made from hemp, linen, silk, silk brocades, silk crepes (like chirimen ) and satin weaves (such as rinzu ). Modern Kimono is widely available in cheaper easy-care fabrics such as rayon, satin cotton, cotton, polyester and other synthetic fibers. Silk is still regarded as the ideal fabric.
Typically, woven patterns and repeated dyed patterns are considered informal. Formal Kimono has a freestyle design that is immersed all over the surface or along the edges. During the Heian period, a kimono is worn with a dozen or more colored contrast layers, with each color combination being a pattern named. Today, kimonos are usually worn with one layer on top of one or more underwear.
The kimono pattern can determine which season to wear. For example, a pattern with butterflies or cherry blossoms will be worn in the spring. The watering design is common during the summer. The popular fall motif is Japanese maple russet leaf; for winter, the design may include bamboo, pine and plum flower.
The most popular form of textile art in Japan is shibori (elaborate dye tie), found in some more expensive kimono and jacket haori kimono. Patterns are made by tying the fabric and covering the area perfectly, then dying, usually by hand. When bindings are removed, the undyed pattern is revealed. Shibori's works can be further enhanced by yuzen (applied hand) drawing or painting with textile dye or with embroidery; then known as tsujigahana. Shibori's textiles are time consuming to produce and require great skills, so the textiles and clothing made from them are very expensive and very valuable.
Old kimono is often recycled: changed to make haori, hiyoku, or kimono for children; used to patch a similar kimono; used to make similar kimono bags and accessories; and used to make a cover, a bag or a box for equipment, especially for sweeteners used in tea ceremonies. Damaged Kimono can be disassembled and resewn to hide dirty areas, and those with damage below the waist line may be worn under the right. Historically, skilled craftsmen painstakingly picked up silk threads from old kimono and put them back into new textiles with wide heko obi for male kimono, using a recycled weaving method called saki-ori .
Section
These terms refer to parts of the kimono:
- D? ura ( ?? ) : the top layer on the female kimono.
- Eri (? ) : collar.
- Fuki (? ) : hem guard.
- Sode (? ) : arm under the armhole.
- Obi (? ) : a belt that is used to fold excess fabric from a viewing public.
- Maemigoro ( ??? ) : front panel, excluding arm. The back cover, maemigoro is divided into "right maemigoro" and "left maemigoro".
- Miyatsukuchi ( ???? ) : open under the sleeve.
- Okumi (? ) : front panel in front on left and right front edge, excluding arm of a kimono. Up to the collar, get to the bottom of the dress, up and down some of the cloth. Has sewed the front body. This is also called "?".
- Sode (? ) : arm.
- Sodeguchi ( ?? ) : open arms.
- Sodetsuke ( ?? ) : armhole kimono.
- Susomawashi ( ??? ) : bottom layer.
- Tamoto (? ) : sleeve pouch.
- Tomoeri ( ?? ) : over collar (protective collar).
- Uraeri : inner collar
- Ushiromigoro ( ??? ) : rear main panel, excluding arm, covering back. They are basically sewn back and consist of "right ushiromigoro" and "left ushiromigoro", but for woolen fabrics, ushiromigoro consists of one part.
Cost
A female Kimono can easily exceed US $ 10,000; full kimono outfits, with kimono, underwear, obi, tie, socks, sandals, and accessories, can exceed US $ 20,000. One obi can cost several thousand dollars. However, most kimono owned by kimono fans or by traditional art practitioners are much cheaper. People actively make their own kimono and underwear by following a standard pattern, or by recycling older kimono. The cheaper and machine-made fabrics can replace the traditional hand-knitted silk. There is also a thriving business in Japan for used kimono, whose price could reach  ¥ 100 (about $ 1.25) at thrift stores in the Tokyo area. Obi women, however, remain largely expensive. Though a simple patterned or plain color can cost as little as  ¥ 500 (about $ 6), even a used obi can cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars, and an experienced skill is needed to make it. Obi men, even those made of silk, tend to be much cheaper, because they are narrower, shorter and less decorative than those worn by women.
Styles
Kimono ranges from very formal to casual. The level of formality of female kimono is determined largely by fabric patterns, and colors. Young female kimono have longer arms, indicating that they are not married, and tend to be more complicated than the older, equally formal female kimono. Male Kimono is usually a basic form and is mainly used in soft colors. Formalities are also determined by the type and color of the accessories, fabrics, and the number or absence of the kamon (family emblem), with the five peaks indicating extreme formality. Silk is the most desirable, and most formal fabric. Kimono made of fabrics such as cotton and polyester generally reflect a more casual style.
Female kimono
Many modern Japanese women do not have the skills to wear a kimono without help: a typical female kimono outfit consists of twelve or more separate pieces that are worn, matched, and guaranteed in the prescribed manner, and assistance from licensed professional kimono craftsmen may be required. Called especially for special occasions, the kimono stylist works from a hair salon and makes home calls.
Choosing the right kind of kimono requires knowledge of the symbolism of clothing and subtle social messages, reflecting the age of women, marital status, and the level of formality of the event.
Furisode
Furisode ( ?? ) is literally translated as swing arm - average arm of furisode between 39 and 42 inches (110 cm) long. Furisode is the most formal kimono for unmarried women, with colorful patterns that cover the entire clothing. They are usually worn at the coming-age ceremony ( seijin shiki ) and by unmarried female bride relative at wedding and wedding reception.
H? mongi
H? mongi ( ??? ) is literally translated as visiting wear . Marked with a pattern that flows over the shoulders, stitches and arms, the rank h? Mongi slightly higher than their close relatives, tsukesage . H? mongi may be worn by married and unmarried women; often bride friends will wear h? mongi at weddings (except relatives) and receptions. They can also be used for formal parties.
Pongee H'mongi was made to promote kimono after World War II. Because Pongee H? Mongi made of Pongee, they are considered ordinary clothes.
Iromuji
Iromuji ( ??? ) is a colored kimono that may be worn by married and unmarried women. They are mainly used for tea ceremony. The dyed sutra can be found ( rinzu , similar to jacquard), but it does not have a different color pattern. It comes from the word "muji" which means plain or solid and "iro" meaning color.
Komon
Komon ( ?? ) means "fine pattern". This term refers to a small repeating patterned kimono throughout the garment. This style is more casual and can be worn around town, or dress with a formal obi for a restaurant. Both married and unmarried women can wear komon .
Edo komon
Edo komon ( ???? ) is a type komon marked by dots small is arranged in a solid pattern that forms a larger design. The Edo komon dipping technique originated with the samurai class during the Edo period. A kimono of this type of pattern is the same formality as iromuji , and when decorated with kamon , it can be used as visiting clothing (equivalent to tsukesage or h? mongi ).
mofuku
Mofuku is a formal mourning dress for men or women. Both men and women are wearing a kimono of plain black silk with five kamon over white and white underwear tabi . For women, obi and all accessories are also black. The men wear a smooth obi and black and white or black and gray striped hakama with black or white zori.
A really black mourning ensemble is usually reserved for families and others close to the deceased.
Tomesode
Irotomesode
The Irotomesode ( ??? ) is a one color kimono, just below the waist. Irotomesode with five family symbols is as formal as kurotomesode , and is worn by married and unmarried women, usually close family brides at weddings and medal ceremonies at the palace. An irotomesode may have three or one kamon . They use semi-formal kimono at parties and conferences.
Kurotomesode
Kurotomesode ( ??? ) is a black kimono that is only patterned below the waist line. They are the most formal kimono for married women. They are often worn by bridal mothers at weddings. Kurotomesode usually has five kamon printed on the arm, chest and back of kimono.
Tsukesage
Tsukesage ( ???? ) has a simpler pattern covering a smaller area - especially below the waist- - than the more formal h? mongi . They can also be worn by married women. The difference from the homongi is the size of the pattern, the connection of the stitches, and not the same outfit inside and outside in hakke As demitoilet, not used in important events, but the light-patterned homongi is higher than the classic Tsukesage motif. General Tsukesage is often used for parties, not ceremonies.
Uchikake
Uchikake ( ?? ) is a very formal kimono worn only by the bride or on stage performances. The uchikake is often very brocade and should be worn outside the real kimono and obi , as a kind of mantle. Therefore there is nothing to bind obi around uchikake . It should be a trail along the floor, this is also why it is so padded along the edges. The uchikake bridal costume is either white or very colorful often with red as the base color.
Susohiki is usually worn by a geisha or by a stage performer from a traditional Japanese dance. Long enough, compared to the usual kimono, because the skirt should be along the floor. Susohiki literally means "skirt trail". Where a normal female kimono is usually 1.5-1.6 m (4.9-5.2 feet) long, a susohiki can be up to 2 m (6.6 ft) long. This is also the reason why geisha and maiko lift their kimono skirts while walking outside, also to show their beautiful underkimono or "nagajuban" (see below).
J? nihitoe
J? nihitoe ( ??? ) is a very elegant and very complicated kimono worn only by the Japanese-Women court. The j? Nihitoe consists of various layers of silk clothing, with the deepest garment made of white silk. Total weight j? Nihitoe can add up to 20 pounds. An important accessory is an elaborate fan, which can be tied with a rope when folded. Today, j'nihitoe can only be seen in museums, movies, costume demonstrations, sights or on certain festivals. These robes are one of the most expensive items of Japanese clothing. Only Imperial Households are still officially using it on some important functions.
Kimono man
In contrast to female kimono, men's kimono outfit is much simpler, usually consisting of five parts, excluding footwear.
The male kimono arm is attached to the kimono body with no more than a few inches unbound at the bottom, unlike the female style of the very deep arm that is largely unbound from the body of the kimono. The men's arms are less deep than the female kimono sleeves to accommodate the obi around the waist below them, whereas in the female kimono, the underside of the long, unbound arms can hang obi without blocking.
In the modern era, the main difference between male kimono is in the fabric. The typical male Kimono is a quiet dark color; black, dark blue, green, and brown are common. Fabrics are usually matte. Some have subtle patterns, and common textured fabrics in a more casual kimono. The more casual Kimono can be made in a slightly lighter color, such as bright purple, green and blue. Sumo wrestlers are sometimes known to wear quite bright colors like fuchsia.
In modern times the meaning of layering kimono and hiyoku is usually forgotten. Only maiko and geisha now use this layering technique for dancing and erotic soft suggestions, usually emphasizing the back of the neck. Modern Japanese brides can also wear traditional Shinto traditional kimono worn with hiyoku.
Traditionally the kimono is worn with a hiyoku or floating layer. Hiyoku can be the second kimono worn under the first and give a traditional layered look to the kimono. Often in a hiyoku modern kimono is just a name for a lower two-sided kimono part that may be exposed to other eyes depending on how the kimono is worn.
The ancient kimono style means hiyoku entirely under the kimono, but modern day layers are usually only partial, to give the impression of layering.
Cares
In the past, kimonos were often separated for washing, and then sewn to be worn. This traditional washing method is called daytime . Because stitches must be removed for washing, traditional kimono should be sewn by hand. Arai hari is very expensive and difficult and is one of the causes of declining popularity of kimono. Modern fabrics and cleaning methods have been developed that eliminate this need, although traditional kimono washing is still done, especially for high-end clothing.
Custom made new Kimosons are generally delivered to customers with long, loose stitches placed around the outer edges. This suture is called shitsuke ito . They are sometimes replaced for storage. They help prevent clusters, folds and wrinkles, and keep the kimono layer parallel.
Like many other traditional Japanese clothing, there is a special way to fold the kimono. These methods help preserve clothing and keep it from tangling when stored. Kimono is often stored in paper called tat? Shi .
Kimono needs to be aired at least seasonally and before and after each wear. Many people prefer to clean their kimono. While this can be very expensive, it is generally cheaper than daytime but may not be possible for certain fabrics or dyes.
References
Further reading
- Milenovich, Sophie (2007). Kimono . New York: Abrams. ISBN: 978-0-8109-9450-8. External links
- Canadian Civilization Museum - Kimono View from Itchiku Kubota
- Tokyo National Museum Look for "textiles" under "decorative arts".
- Kyoto National Museum: Textiles
- Costume Museum: History of Costumes in Japan
- Kimono Fraise; including instructions on how to wear kimono
- Forum Geisha Abadi; Comprehensive Resources on the Culture of Kimono Vintage and Modern
- Kimono Vintage from MEIJI, TAISH? & amp; SH? WA period.
- Love Kimono! A lot of knowledge about kimono with pictures.
Craft materials
- "Kimono from V & amp; Collection A". Asia . Museum of Victoria and Albert . Retrieved 2007-07-13 .
- "Fashioning Kimono: Dressed in the early 20th century Japan". Asia . The Victoria and Albert Museum. Archived from the original on 2007-05-13 . Retrieved 2007-06-16 .
Source of the article : Wikipedia
0 Comments